On Surfing
2020 has been full of surprises. For one, who knew I would discover my passion for surfing.
My first surfing lesson was in Oahu, the day before Thanksgiving in 2020. I met Derrick, a generous, caring, charismatic surfing instructor who’s been surfing with my dear friend Kay for over the past seven years. Waikiki was perfect for a beginner like me that day. It had a calm, gentle, consistent reef break and it was empty (COVID silver lining), giving me a sense of safety. In part because of this perfect condition, I managed to get up on a 12-foot soft-top board on our first lesson. And gliding on the water felt so thrilling. Even when paddling back to the lineup, while feeling the weakness in my upper body, I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the beautiful, dazzling water surrounding me. So there I was, falling in love with surfing. Since then, I surfed almost every other day for the past seven weeks. I surfed in the Kawela Bay in North Shore, La Punta in Puerto Escondido in Mexico, and at the Playa Venao in Panama. Today, I am proud that I can catch 3 to 4-foot waves by myself on an 8-foot soft top board. I love this so much that becoming an intermediate surfer made my intention list for 2021.
So why do I love surfing?
Surfing invites me to flow. Once I commit to catching a wave, my entire being is committed. My body is paddling intensely and my mind is fiercely focused. All my senses are attuned to feeling the waves catching me under my belly. When it catches, my body pops up and my peripheral vision scans for the white crest of breaking waves. My feet sense the power of waves and my body maneuvers the board. My eyes are soaking in the view of the shore that is quickly approaching while looking out for any hazards. I am in the flow state! Flowing with the ocean and the board physically and energetically. I cannot believe that I am doing this but I am doing this. Even when I fall — oh boy, did I fall and do many cartwheels in the water — the water is soft, warm, and gentle. Feeling the force of the waves swirling me around makes me feel alive, whispering this is where I belong.
Surfing reminds me that I need to believe in myself. When I tried a 9-foot hard top surfboard in my fifth lesson in Oahu after having only ridden a 12-foot board, I doubted myself. When I went out for 4 to 6-foot waves for the first time, I doubted myself. On those days, I indeed wiped out on every single attempt to get up. I quickly got tired and scared. My instructors believed in me even when I wanted to give up for the day. When a new set rolled in and Derrick asked me if I wanted to try it, unlike my usual enthusiastic self, I said No. I was done being wiped out. My nose bled. My legs were bleeding from two deep cuts. More importantly, I didn’t trust that I could do it. “Do you really think I can do this?” I asked. “Of course you can. You got this, Aerin.” Somehow, his belief in me unlocked something in me. All my doubts disappeared as his words entered my heart. “Yes, I got this.” I caught the very next wave and rode all the way. I made what seemed impossible possible, manifesting hope into reality, by believing in myself.
Surfing teaches me the infinite wisdom of the ocean. The first wisdom is interconnectivity. I find it so magical that a storm somewhere far away transmits this energy into the ocean and that becomes swell which travels many miles by the time I get to ride it. I see this interconnectivity where all things seemingly completely unrelated somehow are all connected in many walks of my life. In this web of interconnectivity, I become humbled as I realize how small I am or my worry is.
The second wisdom is preciousness. I find it fascinating how no two waves are the same. They are all part of the ocean and each of them is so unique in its own way. So no two surfing rides are the same as a result. When I am mindful of this, each wave becomes precious and each ride becomes precious. Then think about it, no two breaths we take are the same either! Each breath gives us life energy and how precious it is. Indeed, preciousness is everywhere when I choose to notice.
The third wisdom is to keep at it and have fun. Waves come and go. Some are good to catch, some are not. Some I fall from, some I ride. When I fall, I stand up and try again. If I am not falling enough, that means I am not pushing myself enough. So take a chance and have fun with it. And isn’t that what life is all about anyway.
